During my stay in Kyoto, I visited Kappo Yamashita for dinner — a traditional Japanese fine-dining restaurant where I experienced the delicate flavors of Kyoto cuisine.
Kappo is a refined style of Japanese dining that highlights the chef’s craftsmanship and seasonal ingredients, with dishes often tailored to each guest’s pace and preferences.
Trying Kappo Dining for the First Time
Since I spent the first night of my two-night trip to Kyoto on the Shinkansen, tonight was my only chance to have dinner out. It was my first visit to Kyoto in my thirties, so I thought—why not treat myself a little? That’s how I decided to try a kappo restaurant for the first time! (I’m not counting “Ore no Kappo,” lol.)
I was headed to Kappo Yamashita, located just a short walk from Kyoto Shiyakusho-mae Station on the subway.
With a mix of excitement and nervousness, I stepped through the noren curtain at the entrance.
Relaxing in a Private Room Upstairs
When you think of a kappo restaurant, you probably picture counter seating, right? Yamashita does have a counter, but this time I was shown to a private room upstairs. The room even had its own restroom — it was so spacious and comfortable, I felt like I could’ve stayed overnight! (lol)
Watching the chef work right in front of you at the counter must be an amazing experience, but since it was my first time at a kappo, I think the private room was the perfect choice—I would’ve been way too nervous otherwise.
A Parade of Delicious and Delightful Dishes
I decided to go with the course menu tonight. Since I wasn’t familiar with how things worked at a kappo, I figured it’d be better to just relax and enjoy the chef’s recommended dishes in their proper order, rather than awkwardly trying to figure things out on my own.
The meal began with the sakizuke (appetizer course): a mix of rapeseed blossoms and ark shell, salted sweet shrimp, broad beans, and if I remember correctly, some smoked hamo (pike conger), among other small bites.
Next came a beautifully arranged platter of sashimi. One of the fish was managatsuo—a name I didn’t recognize at all, and it turned out to be a completely unfamiliar fish to me.
The wanmono — a delicate clear soup course in traditional Japanese cuisine — was so comforting; it really hit the spot.
Then came the grilled fish course. Even the sunomono—the vinegared side dish served alongside the fish—was wonderfully flavorful.
Next was kabura mushi—a classic Kyoto-style steamed turnip dish. Absolutely delicious.
And then came a generous serving of tempura…
A dish dressed with mustard miso—maybe this is what they call teppai?
For the shokuji — the traditional rice and soup course that concludes a Japanese meal — they served chimaki, a sticky rice dumpling wrapped in bamboo leaves! I was surprised, since chimaki is usually associated with Chinese cuisine. (lol)
By the time I realized it, I had already finished the dessert fruit—so no photo this time! Everything was absolutely delicious, and the drinks kept flowing. It was a truly satisfying dinner.
Gochisousama deshita!
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