A Visit to Dazaifu Tenmangu and Its Remarkable Temporary Shrine

Table of Contents

Let’s Visit Dazaifu Tenmangu

An Extremely Crowded Approach

After breakfast at our hotel in Hakata, we set out for a day of sightseeing. Our first destination was Dazaifu Tenmangu.

We drove there from Hakata, but the traffic along the way was terrible, so it took much longer than expected to arrive….

There were no parking spaces available either, and we only just managed to park in a lot set up on someone’s residential property.

Once we got out of the car and started along the approach, we found an enormous crowd there too.

Crowds along the approach to Dazaifu Tenmangu

There were also many tourists who seemed to be from Korea and Taiwan, which really made me feel that Dazaifu Tenmangu is a popular destination for people from across Asia as well.

Umegae Mochi at “Yasutake”

On the way to Dazaifu Tenmangu, we decided to try the umegae mochi at Yasutake.

The sign for Yasutake, a umegae mochi shop on the approach to Dazaifu Tenmangu

The shop made use of an old building while giving it a very modern renovation, so it really stood out.

The exterior of Yasutake, a umegae mochi shop on the approach to Dazaifu Tenmangu

Through the glass, I could watch the staff skillfully grilling the umegae mochi.

Inside Yasutake, a umegae mochi shop on the approach to Dazaifu Tenmangu: staff are grilling umegae mochi in the glass-walled room at the back, while another staff member is selling them at the counter in front

A staff member grilling umegae mochi inside the glass-walled room at Yasutake, a umegae mochi shop on the approach to Dazaifu Tenmangu

The freshly cooked mochi were passed through a small opening to the sales counter, and it was fun to watch them come through.

At Yasutake, a umegae mochi shop on the approach to Dazaifu Tenmangu, a staff member passes freshly grilled umegae mochi from inside the glass-walled room to the staff at the counter

The freshly made mochi were extremely hot, and I slightly burned my tongue, but they were absolutely delicious.

Umegae mochi photographed inside Yasutake, a umegae mochi shop on the approach to Dazaifu Tenmangu

There are more than 30 umegae mochi shops along the approach, so it’s hard to decide where to buy them.

That Architect-Designed Starbucks

Very close by, there’s a famous Starbucks Coffee location. It’s known as a work by the celebrated architect Kengo Kuma.

Starbucks Coffee on the approach to Dazaifu Tenmangu

There were lots of overseas visitors taking commemorative photos in front of the store!

Only Visible Now! Amazed by the Temporary Shrine

Paying My Respects at the Lush Green Temporary Shrine

Given how crowded the approach had been, the shrine grounds were of course packed as well. It was only when I got there that I realized there were especially many families visiting for Shichi-Go-San at this time of year.

The view of the temporary shrine from the Romon Gate at Dazaifu Tenmangu

The main shrine building of Dazaifu Tenmangu is currently undergoing major renovation work, so the temporary shrine built in front of it serves as the place of worship.

Many worshippers lined up at the temporary shrine of Dazaifu Tenmangu on a sunny day

This temporary shrine is not just a simple provisional structure—it is a work by the architect Sou Fujimoto.

The temporary shrine of Dazaifu Tenmangu on a sunny day

Plants have been set into the roof, giving it a unique form unlike anything I had seen before.

The temporary shrine of Dazaifu Tenmangu seen diagonally from the side on a sunny day

Seen from the side, the roof looks surprisingly thin, so I found myself wondering how they had managed to plant all that greenery in it.

The temporary shrine of Dazaifu Tenmangu seen from below at the side on a sunny day

I heard this temporary shrine will only be here for 3 years, and I really wanted to see it, so I’m so glad I was able to visit.

Learning at the Kanko History Museum

Farther inside, there is a history museum with exhibits depicting the life of Sugawara no Michizane using Hakata dolls. Since we were there, we decided to take a look at that as well.

An exhibit at the history museum of Dazaifu Tenmangu: a scene from “Song of the Plum Blossoms” recreated with Hakata dolls

The Treasure Hall Is Hosting “Sou Fujimoto Exhibition: The Path of the Dazaifu Tenmangu Temporary Shrine”

On the way back toward the approach, there is also a treasure hall. It was hosting an exhibition introducing the process by which Sou Fujimoto, who designed the temporary shrine we had just seen, arrived at its final design, and this was one of the reasons for our trip.

A large poster for the Sou Fujimoto exhibition being held at the treasure hall of Dazaifu Tenmangu

The exhibition uses the last room of the treasure hall. Through numerous architectural models and CG images, it shows the trial and error that went into reaching the final form.

The Sou Fujimoto exhibition at the treasure hall of Dazaifu Tenmangu, with architectural models in the foreground and CG images displayed in the back

Some of the ideas were wonderfully unusual—things like cone-shaped concepts and jungle gym-like structures—and I found them fascinating.

A CG image displayed at the Sou Fujimoto exhibition held at the treasure hall of Dazaifu Tenmangu

There was also a large enlarged drawing of the planted roof we had seen earlier, displayed in a way that let us examine it from the side.

An exhibit at the Sou Fujimoto exhibition held at the treasure hall of Dazaifu Tenmangu: a sectional drawing of the planted roof

I learned that the plants had been selected with seasonal changes in mind.

An exhibit at the Sou Fujimoto exhibition held at the treasure hall of Dazaifu Tenmangu: an explanation of the plants used on the roof

There were also photos showing trees being planted into the roof while it was still under construction, before the greenery was fully in place. Although the roof looks thin at first glance, it became clear that the planted sections were built with plenty of depth.