Fukuoka– category –

After a quick drink at a kakuuchi, I headed to Torikawa Takenoya in the same station building for an izakaya meal of a Hakata specialty, goma saba, the shop’s famous torikawa chicken skin skewers, made by wrapping chicken skin into curls and grilling them until crisp, and whale tatsuta-age, meat marinated in soy sauce and ginger, coated lightly, and deep-fried.

With a little time left before my flight, I went to the TOTO Museum in Kitakyushu—taking the monorail on purpose, even though it meant a longer walk. For a longtime TOTO fan like me, the museum felt almost like a pilgrimage.

Before heading to the airport by bus from Kokura Station, I stopped at MELKED inside the station building for a casual kakuuchi experience and a few glasses of sake chosen to match my taste.

At the end of my walk from the TOTO Museum, I stopped by the Kitakyushu City Museum of Literature, an elegant building designed by Arata Isozaki with striking stained glass and beautifully handled curves.

Before flying back from Kitakyushu Airport, I finished the day with a simple bowl of ramen at Kyushu Chikuho Ramen Yamagoya.

After soaking up the atmosphere of Mojiko, I crossed the Kanmon Strait by ferry to Shimonoseki, where I was staying for the night. The short ride was rougher and more thrilling than I had expected.

I took the train from Kokura to Mojiko and spent time strolling its retro streets, visiting a free telecommunications museum, and looking out over the Kanmon Strait from the Mojiko Retro Observation Room.

One of the reasons I wanted to visit Kokura Station was to see its striking terminal building, where the monorail station sits above the concourse. I also took in the view from Saint City across the street before moving on to Mojiko.

After arriving at Kitakyushu Airport, I headed straight into Kokura for my first meal of the trip: a popular local curry shop called Curry Frankie-ken, a playful name that riffs on the famous Japanese celebrity Lily Franky. With its refined interior and a single-minded focus on chicken curry, it made a memorable start to my journey.

I stepped into Riverwalk Kitakyushu, a commercial complex designed by American architect Jon Jerde, and was struck by its bold appearance beside the castle townscape.

Across from Kokura Station, Saint City preserves the grand atmosphere of the former Kokura Sogo department store, from double escalators and a marble elevator hall to spiral escalators and a dramatic atrium. I stopped by to look around and ended up enjoying the view of the station from its rest area.

A short walk from Kokura Station led me to Kokura Castle, a reconstructed keep set against the strikingly modern presence of Riverwalk Kitakyushu. Inside, the castle felt surprisingly commercial, with even a café at the top floor, while the neighboring garden was partly occupied by a wedding photo shoot.

After a slow drive from Hakata through heavy traffic, I arrived at Dazaifu Tenmangu to find packed streets, crowded grounds, and a rare chance to see its striking temporary shrine before the main hall’s renovation is complete.

On the way from Dazaifu to Saga, I stopped at Maki no Udon Onojo for lunch and finally tried its famous Niku Gobou Udon, a bowl of udon topped with simmered beef and burdock root tempura. The sweet broth, soft noodles, and unexpectedly thick burdock tempura made it a memorable meal.

After visiting Dazaifu Tenmangu, I stopped by Kanzeon-ji and found a completely different atmosphere: quiet, sparsely populated, and full of history. The highlight was the temple’s impressive treasure house, where the Buddhist statues inside left a strong impression on me.

For the third stop of the night, I wrapped up dinner at Ramen Unari Kiyokawa with a bowl of their popular seafood tonkotsu ramen.

On a night out enjoying Hakata’s food scene, I walked to my second stop, Hakata Mizutaki Senmon Tachibana, to try authentic mizutaki for the first time in its hometown.

On a one-night stay in Hakata before heading to Saga, I stopped at Machiya Akariya, a place known for both sake and thoughtful food. With warm sake, carefully prepared small plates, and several dishes that perfectly matched my taste, it was a memorable first stop of the night.

After arriving in Fukuoka, I headed straight to Cross Life Hakata Tenjin and spent the night in an adjoining room. From the art-filled interiors to the large public bath and a busy breakfast the next morning, it was a short but memorable stay.

Before flying out from Haneda, I stopped at BEER CAFE+ for a quick, light lunch and chose iced tea over the café’s signature beer.

After a short rest at my hotel, I headed out into Fukuoka and made my way to Canal City, a place I had admired since childhood. On this second visit, I was struck again by its dramatic waterside setting and stayed to watch the Canal Aqua Panorama show, “Imagination.”

After arriving in Hakata around midday, I was taken to Shin Shin for the Hakata ramen I had been looking forward to. The broth was much lighter than I had imagined, and I was lucky to get in without waiting.

After Hakata ramen, I stopped by the stylish sake shop Sumiyoshi Shuhan for a standing tasting and tried four kinds of sake served in a clever masu cup.

On my last morning at Huis Ten Bosch, I had breakfast at AURA, the restaurant attached to Henn na Hotel, then packed up and left under a strikingly clear blue sky.