Nara– category –

Before leaving Nara for Kyoto, I stopped at Toshodai-ji, a temple founded by Ganjin, the Chinese monk who introduced proper Buddhist ordination to Japan, in 759. As part of the UNESCO-listed Cultural Properties of Ancient Nara, it offered a calmer, more spacious atmosphere than the famous temples in Kyoto.

After visiting Toshodaiji, I went on to Yakushiji, another World Heritage site in Nara. Founded in 680, it has an even longer history, yet much of the temple grounds feels strikingly new because many buildings were reconstructed from the late Showa period onward.

I passed by Nara Centennial Hall near Nara Station, a multipurpose hall designed by Arata Isozaki. Even without going inside, its striking form and powerful presence were impressive from the street.

Built in 1934, the former JR Nara Station building combines modern construction with temple-like and distinctly Japanese design elements, reflecting the architectural mood of early Showa Japan.

On my second stay at JW Marriott Hotel Nara, I enjoyed the hotel’s Christmas decorations, its calm and well-designed guest room, cocktail hour in the executive lounge, a late drink at the bar, and breakfast the next morning.

For dinner, I walked from the hotel to Japanese Cuisine Kawanami, a place I had visited a few years earlier. The careful Japanese cooking, generous use of fresh homegrown vegetables, and thoughtful sake selection made it a satisfying return.

On the way back from Nara, I stopped near Kyoto Station for my first bowl of Kyoto ramen at Shinpuku Saikan and was surprised by how light the famously dark broth tasted.

On my final day, I took the bus to Heijō Palace Site and wandered through its enormous former capital grounds, from Suzaku Gate and Daigokumon to the restored audience hall and the excellent free museum nearby.

After wandering Nara’s backstreets, I stopped at Karamell, a dessert café run by a pastry chef couple, and enjoyed a beautifully plated Engadiner tart and chocolate gelato.

On the way back toward my hotel in Nara, I ended up at Nakatanidou, a shop known for its yomogi mochi. I originally bought one to take back to my room, but it was clearly the kind of treat that had to be eaten right away.

For dinner on my second night, I walked less than 10 minutes from the hotel to Koryori Nara, a small restaurant in a quiet residential area. The omakase-style course kept coming, paired with plenty of local Nara sake, and by the end I was happily lightheaded.

While continuing my walk around Nara, I stopped near the shopping arcade for lunch at Wakakusa Curry Honpo and tried the special four-curry combo.

While continuing my walk through Nara, I stopped at the flagship store of Nakagawa Masashichi Shoten, a striking complex that suddenly appears in a backstreet and houses several shops, including a Sarutahiko Coffee on the first floor.

I started the second day of my Nara trip with breakfast at the hotel buffet, enjoying sparkling wine in the morning, eggs Benedict as my main dish, and a favorite bread pudding for dessert.

I headed to Kofuku-ji next, where restoration work was still underway. Even so, seeing the recently reconstructed Chukondo, the five-story pagoda under repair, and the distinctive octagonal Nanendo made the visit memorable.

I stopped by the Nara National Museum’s Nara Buddhist Sculpture Hall, a dignified Meiji-era building completed in 1894 and designed by Katayama Tōkuma. On this visit, I focused on the Buddhist Sculpture Hall, where a special display of towering guardian statues made a strong impression.

My next stop in Nara was Todai-ji, famous for the Great Buddha. Visiting again for the first time since a junior high school trip, I was struck by the scale of the deer, the Daibutsuden, and the Buddha himself.

I set out from JW Marriott Hotel Nara for a car-free morning in central Nara, took the hotel shuttle toward Kintetsu Nara Station, and soon found myself in the part of Nara Park where deer seem to be everywhere.

I made my way to Kasuga Taisha while interacting with deer along the route. The shrine’s long history, deer-themed details, and rows of hanging lanterns gave the visit a quietly mystical atmosphere.

I arrived in Nara via Kyoto, walked from Shin-Omiya Station to JW Marriott Hotel Nara, and spent my first evening settling into the hotel, from check-in and the room to cocktails at the lounge bar.

On the first night of my trip, I had dinner at Japanese Cuisine Kawanami near Shin-Ōmiya Station, a small husband-and-wife-run restaurant where freshly harvested vegetables from their own field were one of the highlights.