TIKIKITI – Spatial Journeys in Japan

I arrived in Hiroshima by Shinkansen from Yamaguchi and was struck by the station’s newly rebuilt complex, where the streetcar platform now extends into the building itself.

For lunch after arriving at Hiroshima Station, I headed to Hiroshima Okonomi Monogatari Ekimae Hiroba, a slightly old-fashioned building near the station, and enjoyed a satisfying Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki meal at Sozo cooked right in front of me at the teppan counter.

After a quick drink at a kakuuchi, I headed to Torikawa Takenoya in the same station building for an izakaya meal of a Hakata specialty, goma saba, the shop’s famous torikawa chicken skin skewers, made by wrapping chicken skin into curls and grilling them until crisp, and whale tatsuta-age, meat marinated in soy sauce and ginger, coated lightly, and deep-fried.

Before flying back from Kitakyushu Airport, I finished the day with a simple bowl of ramen at Kyushu Chikuho Ramen Yamagoya.

At the end of my walk from the TOTO Museum, I stopped by the Kitakyushu City Museum of Literature, an elegant building designed by Arata Isozaki with striking stained glass and beautifully handled curves.

Before heading to the airport by bus from Kokura Station, I stopped at MELKED inside the station building for a casual kakuuchi experience and a few glasses of sake chosen to match my taste.

With a little time left before my flight, I went to the TOTO Museum in Kitakyushu—taking the monorail on purpose, even though it meant a longer walk. For a longtime TOTO fan like me, the museum felt almost like a pilgrimage.

I took the train from Kokura to Mojiko and spent time strolling its retro streets, visiting a free telecommunications museum, and looking out over the Kanmon Strait from the Mojiko Retro Observation Room.

After soaking up the atmosphere of Mojiko, I crossed the Kanmon Strait by ferry to Shimonoseki, where I was staying for the night. The short ride was rougher and more thrilling than I had expected.

A short walk from Kokura Station led me to Kokura Castle, a reconstructed keep set against the strikingly modern presence of Riverwalk Kitakyushu. Inside, the castle felt surprisingly commercial, with even a café at the top floor, while the neighboring garden was partly occupied by a wedding photo shoot.

Across from Kokura Station, Saint City preserves the grand atmosphere of the former Kokura Sogo department store, from double escalators and a marble elevator hall to spiral escalators and a dramatic atrium. I stopped by to look around and ended up enjoying the view of the station from its rest area.

I stepped into Riverwalk Kitakyushu, a commercial complex designed by American architect Jon Jerde, and was struck by its bold appearance beside the castle townscape.

After arriving at Kitakyushu Airport, I headed straight into Kokura for my first meal of the trip: a popular local curry shop called Curry Frankie-ken, a playful name that riffs on the famous Japanese celebrity Lily Franky. With its refined interior and a single-minded focus on chicken curry, it made a memorable start to my journey.

One of the reasons I wanted to visit Kokura Station was to see its striking terminal building, where the monorail station sits above the concourse. I also took in the view from Saint City across the street before moving on to Mojiko.

On the final stretch of my Shiga trip, I stopped by the Lake Biwa Museum, where exhibits on the lake’s long history, human life around it, and freshwater life are paired with wide-open views of Biwa itself.

On the last night of my Shiga trip, I got off at Hikone Station for dinner and ended the journey with local specialties at Uomaru Hikone.

On the final day of my Shiga trip, I visited La Collina Omi-Hachiman, the headquarters and flagship shop of the Taneya Group. From its dreamlike architecture by Terunobu Fujimori to the Baum Factory, food court, and gift shop, the whole place felt more immersive than a typical commercial facility.

I explored Omihachiman’s compact old town on foot, enjoying lunch in a Vories building, strolling along the historic Hachiman-bori canal, and visiting a few of the area’s distinctive historic buildings.

I stopped by Club Harie Himurekan, a former residence designed by William Merrell Vories and now used as a Club Harie shop and facility. Although the Vories-designed section was under maintenance and closed during my visit, the striking red-brick building out front still stood out, and I ended up trying Harie no Long, a long rice-flour cream puff filled to order.

Across from Club Harie Himurekan, I stopped at Taneya Himure no Sha for a short break, watched Tsubura Mochi being grilled by the entrance, and enjoyed them fresh with an unusual cup of anko coffee.

From the area behind Himure Hachimangu Shrine, I took the ropeway up Mount Hachiman, wandered past the observatory building and autumn leaves, and looked out over Lake Biwa from the ruins of Hachimanyama Castle.

I visited BIWAKO Biennale 2025 “FLUX” in Omihachiman, where contemporary art unfolds inside historic townhouses, former storehouses, and old merchant residences across the city.

I headed toward Chomeiji by bus and caught a beautiful magic-hour view of Lake Biwa before stopping at Chomeiji Onsen Tenha no Yu for a soak.

After an evening walk along Hachiman-bori, I stopped by Two Rabbits Brewing BEER HOUSE, the brewery-run taproom founded by an Australian owner, and enjoyed a fresh beer in its stylish, international-feeling space.

Kyoto visit includes Garden of Fine Art Kyoto by Tadao Ando, featuring ceramic paintings like Monet’s Water Lilies and Michelangelo’s “The Last Judgment”. Lunch at INDIA GATE offers Kyoto-style biryani. Luggage transfer via Satellite Concierge at Kyoto Station to The Westin Miyako Hotel Kyoto concludes the day.

Experience history and luxury at The Westin Miyako Kyoto, a gem since 1900 now part of the Kintetsu Group.

Experience the exquisite flavors of Kyoto's Kappo Yamashita, where every dish showcases the chef's expertise and seasonal ingredients. Indulge in a refined dining experience tailored to your pace and preferences.

I began my Kyoto trip with an overnight stay at sequence KYOTO GOJO, a hotel one subway stop from Kyoto Station and just a short walk from Gojo Station. With self check-in, facial recognition access, simple modern rooms, and a large public bath, it made for a smooth and comfortable start.

Getting into Katsura Imperial Villa took persistence long before I arrived in Kyoto. After finally winning a reservation, I visited this remarkable estate and found that its guided tour revealed layer after layer of hospitality, wit, and carefully staged scenery.