TIKIKITI – Spatial Journeys in Japan

I stopped by the long-established coffee shop Coffee Bigaku Abe for a break and enjoyed its charming Showa-era atmosphere along with a good cup of coffee.

I ended my walk around Matsumoto at Matsumoto Performing Arts Centre, a Toyo Ito–designed building with a sweeping curved exterior, patterned walls, and striking interior spaces filled with light.

I stayed at Hotel Tamanoyu in Asama Onsen, a historic hot spring area just outside Matsumoto, and enjoyed a kaiseki dinner, a private open-air bath, and a satisfying breakfast the next morning.

I traveled to Matsumoto in late December to see Matsumoto Castle, climbed the keep on the last open day of 2021, and came back at night for the illuminated view reflected on the frozen moat.

I spent the morning at W Osaka swimming in the neon-lit WET pool, then heading to breakfast at Oh.lala.... It was stylish, playful, and very much W—exactly the kind of stay I loved, even if I can see why it won’t be for everyone.

After falling for W Hotels in Hong Kong in 2017, I had been waiting for the brand to arrive in Japan. When W Osaka finally opened, I went to see whether that old feeling still held true—and from the understated black exterior to the unmistakably W-style room, it absolutely did.

On a nighttime stroll through Kitahama and into Nakanoshima, I enjoyed the illuminated architecture, the calm riverside scenery, and the atmosphere of the city after dark.

In Osaka’s Kitahama district, a short walk along Sakaisuji reveals a business and financial area where historic modern buildings still shape the streetscape.

JR Osaka Station has been transformed by major redevelopment, from the spacious Umekita Plaza and its dramatic use of water to the massive station building and, a short walk away, the striking Umeda Ventilation Tower.

Looking out from Osaka Station, I spotted the Umeda Sky Building beyond the vast redevelopment area of Umekita Phase 2. Up close, its huge circular opening, suspended escalators, and postmodern details made it even more fascinating.

I stayed at Hotel Monterey La Soeur Osaka, an American Art Deco–themed hotel near Kyobashi Station. From the lobby and elevators to the guest room and breakfast venue, the design gave the whole stay a distinctive atmosphere.

I visited RIHGA Royal Hotel Osaka, a long-established hotel in Nakanoshima with more than 80 years of history. From its grand main lounge shaped by Japanese aesthetics to the guest rooms in its older and newer wings, it felt like both a hotel stay and an architectural exploration.

In Nakanoshima, Osaka City Central Public Hall stands as a defining landmark. I look at the red-brick building, the surrounding district, and the architecturally rich setting that has grown around it.

In Bentencho, a station area just outside central Osaka, Art Hotel Osaka Bay Tower stands inside the former ORC200 redevelopment. I’ve stayed there both before and after its 2018 renewal, and what remains most memorable is the contrast between its updated rooms, its lingering late-1980s to early-1990s boom-era details, and the views from high above the city.

On a summer trip to Hiroshima, one of the first places I headed to was Hiroshima City Nishi Fire Station. Its glass walls and distinctive louvers make it feel surprisingly open, turning a working fire station into architecture that invites the public in.

In Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, I visited the National Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims, a late work by Kenzo Tange. Mostly hidden underground, the building uses time, water, and a descending path to create a powerful space for remembrance.

After crossing from Awaji Island by highway bus, I stopped at the Maiko Marine Promenade and the Bridge Exhibition Center, where I could step inside the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge itself and explore detailed exhibits about how it was built and illuminated.

Back in Osaka after Hyogo, I ended the trip at Kohaku in the LUCUA Osaka basement, a popular place for French-style oden and easygoing drinks.

From Maiko Station, I headed to the Tadanori Yokoo Museum of Contemporary Art near Nada Station, where powerful works by Yokoo fill a building that once housed the Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Modern Art.

I stayed at The Westin Awaji Island, which made it easy to sightsee without worrying about the time. The room was bright and spacious, and both dinner and breakfast were buffet meals at the hotel.

I came to Awaji Island mainly to see Honpukuji Mizumido, one of Tadao Ando’s signature works. I walked there from Awaji Yumebutai, and it took about 40 minutes, but the approach made the encounter with this unusual temple even more memorable.

I stayed at Awaji Yumebutai on Awaji Island and spent the afternoon wandering through its enormous complex of Tadao Ando-designed spaces, from the Sea Chapel and open-air forums to the Hyakudan-en gardens and the site’s dreamlike nighttime scenery.

I stayed at Moxy Osaka Honmachi, a design-forward hotel with a lively lounge, welcome drinks, simple rooms, and a noodle-based breakfast that made for a hotel stay a little different from the usual.

After visiting the National Museum of Ethnology, I also stopped by the EXPO’70 Pavilion in Expo Commemoration Park, where the original pavilion building and displays from the Osaka Expo remain.

Kyoto visit includes Garden of Fine Art Kyoto by Tadao Ando, featuring ceramic paintings like Monet’s Water Lilies and Michelangelo’s “The Last Judgment”. Lunch at INDIA GATE offers Kyoto-style biryani. Luggage transfer via Satellite Concierge at Kyoto Station to The Westin Miyako Hotel Kyoto concludes the day.

Experience history and luxury at The Westin Miyako Kyoto, a gem since 1900 now part of the Kintetsu Group.

Experience the exquisite flavors of Kyoto's Kappo Yamashita, where every dish showcases the chef's expertise and seasonal ingredients. Indulge in a refined dining experience tailored to your pace and preferences.

I began my Kyoto trip with an overnight stay at sequence KYOTO GOJO, a hotel one subway stop from Kyoto Station and just a short walk from Gojo Station. With self check-in, facial recognition access, simple modern rooms, and a large public bath, it made for a smooth and comfortable start.

Getting into Katsura Imperial Villa took persistence long before I arrived in Kyoto. After finally winning a reservation, I visited this remarkable estate and found that its guided tour revealed layer after layer of hospitality, wit, and carefully staged scenery.

After visiting Dazaifu Tenmangu, I stopped by Kanzeon-ji and found a completely different atmosphere: quiet, sparsely populated, and full of history. The highlight was the temple’s impressive treasure house, where the Buddhist statues inside left a strong impression on me.

I stopped by Club Harie Himurekan, a former residence designed by William Merrell Vories and now used as a Club Harie shop and facility. Although the Vories-designed section was under maintenance and closed during my visit, the striking red-brick building out front still stood out, and I ended up trying Harie no Long, a long rice-flour cream puff filled to order.

From the area behind Himure Hachimangu Shrine, I took the ropeway up Mount Hachiman, wandered past the observatory building and autumn leaves, and looked out over Lake Biwa from the ruins of Hachimanyama Castle.

After returning from the Expo exhausted, I went to Kohaku Brasserie in KITTE Osaka, in the same building as my hotel. Unlike the usual Kohaku, which focuses on small plates, this newer format serves more substantial French à la carte dishes.