TIKIKITI – Spatial Journeys in Japan

I headed to Byodo-in Phoenix Hall in Uji under a perfect May sky. Even early in the morning, the crowds were already there, and I ended up waiting about three hours for an interior visit reservation.

I headed to Yuuki’s Gion branch for dinner and was very glad I had made a reservation. The place was packed, the sake selection was fun to explore, and nearly every dish made me want to order another round.

On my second trip to Kyoto this year, I stayed at The Westin Miyako Kyoto again, taking advantage of the hotel’s free shuttle bus, a Platinum upgrade to a Junior Suite, and another chance to enjoy its gardens, baths, and breakfast buffet.

As my Kyoto trip was winding down, I grabbed some bread from Shizuya before boarding the Shinkansen back to Tokyo. I did not have time for a proper lunch, so this became my train meal.

I visited the renewed Kyoto City KYOCERA Museum of Art, where a solemn 1933 Imperial Crown Style building now sits above a transparent modern addition. Even before the exhibitions, the architecture alone made the visit worthwhile.

After checking out of The Westin Miyako Kyoto, I walked to Nanzen-ji via the twisted brick tunnel near Keage Incline, explored its vast grounds, visited the still-functioning Suirokaku aqueduct, admired the Hojo Garden, and climbed the Sanmon gate for the view.

On my only dinner night out during a two-night Kyoto trip, I decided to try kappo for the first time at Kappo Yamashita, just a short walk from Kyoto Shiyakusho-mae Station. A private room on the second floor took the edge off my nerves, and the course meal turned into a thoroughly satisfying evening.

I spent the night at The Westin Miyako Kyoto, a long-established hotel that first opened in 1900. Fresh from its 2021 renovation, it felt thoroughly modern, while still offering glimpses of the architectural legacy that drew me there in the first place.

Getting into Katsura Imperial Villa took persistence long before I arrived in Kyoto. After finally winning a reservation, I visited this remarkable estate and found that its guided tour revealed layer after layer of hospitality, wit, and carefully staged scenery.

I visited the Garden of Fine Arts Kyoto, an outdoor museum designed by Tadao Ando, where ceramic reproductions of famous paintings are woven into a striking concrete landscape of water, stairs, and underground passages.

After visiting the Garden of Fine Arts Kyoto, I headed back toward Karasuma for lunch and stopped at INDIA GATE, a biryani spot tucked down a side street. I ordered a half-and-half plate with firefly squid biryani and sea bream broth biryani, plus spiced egg and nagaimo achar.

I took the subway from my hotel to Kyoto Imperial Palace, a former imperial residence with free admission and a free audio guide app. Walking the vast grounds at a relaxed pace, I enjoyed seeing buildings from different periods and imagining the world that once surrounded the palace.

Instead of using the hotel’s popular breakfast, I walked to nearby Takagi Coffee for their signature Rich Morning set before heading out sightseeing.

I began my Kyoto trip with an overnight stay at sequence KYOTO GOJO, a hotel one subway stop from Kyoto Station and just a short walk from Gojo Station. With self check-in, facial recognition access, simple modern rooms, and a large public bath, it made for a smooth and comfortable start.

I spent the morning at W Osaka swimming in the neon-lit WET pool, then heading to breakfast at Oh.lala.... It was stylish, playful, and very much W—exactly the kind of stay I loved, even if I can see why it won’t be for everyone.

After falling for W Hotels in Hong Kong in 2017, I had been waiting for the brand to arrive in Japan. When W Osaka finally opened, I went to see whether that old feeling still held true—and from the understated black exterior to the unmistakably W-style room, it absolutely did.

On a nighttime stroll through Kitahama and into Nakanoshima, I enjoyed the illuminated architecture, the calm riverside scenery, and the atmosphere of the city after dark.

In Osaka’s Kitahama district, a short walk along Sakaisuji reveals a business and financial area where historic modern buildings still shape the streetscape.

JR Osaka Station has been transformed by major redevelopment, from the spacious Umekita Plaza and its dramatic use of water to the massive station building and, a short walk away, the striking Umeda Ventilation Tower.

Looking out from Osaka Station, I spotted the Umeda Sky Building beyond the vast redevelopment area of Umekita Phase 2. Up close, its huge circular opening, suspended escalators, and postmodern details made it even more fascinating.

I stayed at Hotel Monterey La Soeur Osaka, an American Art Deco–themed hotel near Kyobashi Station. From the lobby and elevators to the guest room and breakfast venue, the design gave the whole stay a distinctive atmosphere.

I visited RIHGA Royal Hotel Osaka, a long-established hotel in Nakanoshima with more than 80 years of history. From its grand main lounge shaped by Japanese aesthetics to the guest rooms in its older and newer wings, it felt like both a hotel stay and an architectural exploration.

In Nakanoshima, Osaka City Central Public Hall stands as a defining landmark. I look at the red-brick building, the surrounding district, and the architecturally rich setting that has grown around it.

In Bentencho, a station area just outside central Osaka, Art Hotel Osaka Bay Tower stands inside the former ORC200 redevelopment. I’ve stayed there both before and after its 2018 renewal, and what remains most memorable is the contrast between its updated rooms, its lingering late-1980s to early-1990s boom-era details, and the views from high above the city.

Kyoto visit includes Garden of Fine Art Kyoto by Tadao Ando, featuring ceramic paintings like Monet’s Water Lilies and Michelangelo’s “The Last Judgment”. Lunch at INDIA GATE offers Kyoto-style biryani. Luggage transfer via Satellite Concierge at Kyoto Station to The Westin Miyako Hotel Kyoto concludes the day.

Experience history and luxury at The Westin Miyako Kyoto, a gem since 1900 now part of the Kintetsu Group.

Experience the exquisite flavors of Kyoto's Kappo Yamashita, where every dish showcases the chef's expertise and seasonal ingredients. Indulge in a refined dining experience tailored to your pace and preferences.

I began my Kyoto trip with an overnight stay at sequence KYOTO GOJO, a hotel one subway stop from Kyoto Station and just a short walk from Gojo Station. With self check-in, facial recognition access, simple modern rooms, and a large public bath, it made for a smooth and comfortable start.

Getting into Katsura Imperial Villa took persistence long before I arrived in Kyoto. After finally winning a reservation, I visited this remarkable estate and found that its guided tour revealed layer after layer of hospitality, wit, and carefully staged scenery.