TIKIKITI – Spatial Journeys in Japan

I came to Awaji Island mainly to see Honpukuji Mizumido, one of Tadao Ando’s signature works. I walked there from Awaji Yumebutai, and it took about 40 minutes, but the approach made the encounter with this unusual temple even more memorable.

I stayed at Awaji Yumebutai on Awaji Island and spent the afternoon wandering through its enormous complex of Tadao Ando-designed spaces, from the Sea Chapel and open-air forums to the Hyakudan-en gardens and the site’s dreamlike nighttime scenery.

I stayed at Moxy Osaka Honmachi, a design-forward hotel with a lively lounge, welcome drinks, simple rooms, and a noodle-based breakfast that made for a hotel stay a little different from the usual.

After visiting the National Museum of Ethnology, I also stopped by the EXPO’70 Pavilion in Expo Commemoration Park, where the original pavilion building and displays from the Osaka Expo remain.

On a day that was finally a trip rather than a business visit, I headed from Shin-Osaka to the National Museum of Ethnology in Expo Commemoration Park. From the approach past the Tower of the Sun to the museum’s enormous world-spanning exhibits, it felt like setting off on a journey around the globe.

I stayed at Daiwa Roynet Hotel Himeji before a business trip and was surprised by how spacious the room felt, with two beds, a sofa area, and a separate bathroom. The room was supposedly a Himeji Castle view room—though actually seeing the castle took a little imagination.

I walked from my hotel to Himeji Castle, only to be reminded just how vast the grounds are. After making my way inside to the main keep, a sudden heavy rainstorm turned the visit into a dark, drenched escape back to the hotel.

On a pre-business-trip overnight stay, I headed out into Himeji for dinner at Jigoro Kohiro, where I tried Himeji oden and himepon before taking a short nighttime walk near the station.

After arriving in Himeji at 2 p.m., I skipped eating on the Shinkansen so I could head straight to Yamayoshi for a local specialty: anago. I ordered the Yamayoshi Set, which let me enjoy both anago rice and grilled eel in one meal.

NIFREL is a different kind of aquarium-like museum near Expo Park, with themed exhibits, close-up animal encounters, and even open areas where capybaras and other animals roam freely.

The day after USJ, I headed into Kobe’s hillside Kitano area to see its Western-style houses, eventually making my way up to Uroko House, the district’s most famous residence.

I chose Hotel Monterey Kobe, a short walk from Sannomiya Station, and stepping in from the bustle of the city felt like entering a quiet old castle. Its beautiful courtyard, calm lobby, chapel, and classic elevator details made the hotel memorable both at night and again in the morning.

After a day spent in storybook-like settings, I wrapped up the trip with my first taste of Akashiyaki in Kobe. The shop served only one thing, and the piping hot dish was simple and delicious.

On my last morning at Huis Ten Bosch, I had breakfast at AURA, the restaurant attached to Henn na Hotel, then packed up and left under a strikingly clear blue sky.

After Hakata ramen, I stopped by the stylish sake shop Sumiyoshi Shuhan for a standing tasting and tried four kinds of sake served in a clever masu cup.

After arriving in Hakata around midday, I was taken to Shin Shin for the Hakata ramen I had been looking forward to. The broth was much lighter than I had imagined, and I was lucky to get in without waiting.

On the last stretch of my Hakata trip, I met up with a special guest from Hong Kong and headed to Tagyu, a popular yakiniku restaurant. The smell of grilling meat reached us before we even arrived, and once we sat down, it turned into a full-on meat feast.

After dinner, I headed back to Canal City Hakata, an easy walk from Hakata Station, and caught the nighttime fountain show from the newer building side.

After visiting Canal City Hakata, I headed to Hakata Riverain Mall, a commercial complex that opened in 1999 as a "super brand city." I had admired its lavish architecture ever since seeing a brochure back then, so finally seeing it in person felt long overdue.

Walking down along the Naka River, I finally reached Canal City Hakata, a place I had long wanted to see. Once inside, its winding canal, enclosed atmosphere, and striking design made it feel less like a shopping center and more like a world of its own.

On my walk toward Canal City Hakata, I unexpectedly came across Kihinkan Old Public Hall of Fukuoka Prefecture and decided to step inside. The historic building felt calm and compact, with a memorable tower facing the Naka River and a very different atmosphere from the streets around Nakasu.

Near ACROS Fukuoka, I stopped by Ganso Hakata Mentaiju for a surprisingly stylish meal centered on spicy cod roe. The signature mentaiju and the mentaiko stewed dipping noodles made for a filling and memorable lunch.

After arriving in Fukuoka and dropping our luggage at the Nishitetsu Grand Hotel in Tenjin, our first stop was Tenjin IMS, a fashion building I had wanted to see ever since catching a glimpse of it on TV. Its glittering exterior and lavish interior completely lived up to my expectations.

I stopped by ACROS Fukuoka, a striking building whose stepped roof is completely covered in greenery. It felt less like a rooftop and more like climbing a mountain in the middle of the city.

Kyoto visit includes Garden of Fine Art Kyoto by Tadao Ando, featuring ceramic paintings like Monet’s Water Lilies and Michelangelo’s “The Last Judgment”. Lunch at INDIA GATE offers Kyoto-style biryani. Luggage transfer via Satellite Concierge at Kyoto Station to The Westin Miyako Hotel Kyoto concludes the day.

Experience history and luxury at The Westin Miyako Kyoto, a gem since 1900 now part of the Kintetsu Group.

Experience the exquisite flavors of Kyoto's Kappo Yamashita, where every dish showcases the chef's expertise and seasonal ingredients. Indulge in a refined dining experience tailored to your pace and preferences.

I began my Kyoto trip with an overnight stay at sequence KYOTO GOJO, a hotel one subway stop from Kyoto Station and just a short walk from Gojo Station. With self check-in, facial recognition access, simple modern rooms, and a large public bath, it made for a smooth and comfortable start.

Getting into Katsura Imperial Villa took persistence long before I arrived in Kyoto. After finally winning a reservation, I visited this remarkable estate and found that its guided tour revealed layer after layer of hospitality, wit, and carefully staged scenery.