TIKIKITI Editorial– Author –

After walking over from Toji and Kanchi-in, I arrived at the Kyoto Railway Museum with only a little time before closing. Even in that short visit, the preserved trains, working roundhouse, and turning locomotive left a strong impression.

I headed to Byodo-in Phoenix Hall in Uji under a perfect May sky. Even early in the morning, the crowds were already there, and I ended up waiting about three hours for an interior visit reservation.

With time to spare before entering Byodoin, I stopped at Torikiku for an early lunch, then headed to Mitsuboshien Kanbayashi Sannyu Honten for tea sweets.

I stopped by Uji Shrine and then walked deeper into the grounds to visit Ujigami Shrine, a World Heritage site known as the oldest shrine building in Japan.

On my way back from Ujigami Shrine, I walked to Keihan Uji Station and found that the station itself became one last highlight of Uji, with its striking, unexpected design.

On my second trip to Kyoto this year, I stayed at The Westin Miyako Kyoto again, taking advantage of the hotel’s free shuttle bus, a Platinum upgrade to a Junior Suite, and another chance to enjoy its gardens, baths, and breakfast buffet.

I headed to Yuuki’s Gion branch for dinner and was very glad I had made a reservation. The place was packed, the sake selection was fun to explore, and nearly every dish made me want to order another round.

I visited the renewed Kyoto City KYOCERA Museum of Art, where a solemn 1933 Imperial Crown Style building now sits above a transparent modern addition. Even before the exhibitions, the architecture alone made the visit worthwhile.

As my Kyoto trip was winding down, I grabbed some bread from Shizuya before boarding the Shinkansen back to Tokyo. I did not have time for a proper lunch, so this became my train meal.

After checking out of The Westin Miyako Kyoto, I walked to Nanzen-ji via the twisted brick tunnel near Keage Incline, explored its vast grounds, visited the still-functioning Suirokaku aqueduct, admired the Hojo Garden, and climbed the Sanmon gate for the view.

On my only dinner night out during a two-night Kyoto trip, I decided to try kappo for the first time at Kappo Yamashita, just a short walk from Kyoto Shiyakusho-mae Station. A private room on the second floor took the edge off my nerves, and the course meal turned into a thoroughly satisfying evening.

I spent the night at The Westin Miyako Kyoto, a long-established hotel that first opened in 1900. Fresh from its 2021 renovation, it felt thoroughly modern, while still offering glimpses of the architectural legacy that drew me there in the first place.

Getting into Katsura Imperial Villa took persistence long before I arrived in Kyoto. After finally winning a reservation, I visited this remarkable estate and found that its guided tour revealed layer after layer of hospitality, wit, and carefully staged scenery.

After visiting the Garden of Fine Arts Kyoto, I headed back toward Karasuma for lunch and stopped at INDIA GATE, a biryani spot tucked down a side street. I ordered a half-and-half plate with firefly squid biryani and sea bream broth biryani, plus spiced egg and nagaimo achar.

I visited the Garden of Fine Arts Kyoto, an outdoor museum designed by Tadao Ando, where ceramic reproductions of famous paintings are woven into a striking concrete landscape of water, stairs, and underground passages.

Instead of using the hotel’s popular breakfast, I walked to nearby Takagi Coffee for their signature Rich Morning set before heading out sightseeing.

I took the subway from my hotel to Kyoto Imperial Palace, a former imperial residence with free admission and a free audio guide app. Walking the vast grounds at a relaxed pace, I enjoyed seeing buildings from different periods and imagining the world that once surrounded the palace.

I began my Kyoto trip with an overnight stay at sequence KYOTO GOJO, a hotel one subway stop from Kyoto Station and just a short walk from Gojo Station. With self check-in, facial recognition access, simple modern rooms, and a large public bath, it made for a smooth and comfortable start.

Along the Metoba River, I visited the Matsumoto City Museum of Clocks, where even the building itself makes a statement with a huge clock built into its facade. Inside, the displays are full of working timepieces, including an 18th-century French clock that made me think of Beauty and the Beast. I also enjoyed seeing the still-active storefront of Midori Yakuhin on nearby Nakamachi Street, a rare example of kanban kenchiku, or signboard architecture.

I stopped by the long-established coffee shop Coffee Bigaku Abe for a break and enjoyed its charming Showa-era atmosphere along with a good cup of coffee.

I ended my walk around Matsumoto at Matsumoto Performing Arts Centre, a Toyo Ito–designed building with a sweeping curved exterior, patterned walls, and striking interior spaces filled with light.

At Matsumoto Mayow near the station, I tried the all-you-can-eat curry menu and sampled a remarkably varied lineup spanning Thai, Sri Lankan, Indian, and Japanese styles.

On the way toward Matsumoto Castle, I came across Shinmai Media Garden, the Matsumoto headquarters of the Shinano Mainichi Shimbun. Its lower floors felt open and flexible, with shops, places to eat, a public piano, and people using the space however they liked.

I stayed at Hotel Tamanoyu in Asama Onsen, a historic hot spring area just outside Matsumoto, and enjoyed a kaiseki dinner, a private open-air bath, and a satisfying breakfast the next morning.

I began my Kyoto trip with an overnight stay at sequence KYOTO GOJO, a hotel one subway stop from Kyoto Station and just a short walk from Gojo Station. With self check-in, facial recognition access, simple modern rooms, and a large public bath, it made for a smooth and comfortable start.

Getting into Katsura Imperial Villa took persistence long before I arrived in Kyoto. After finally winning a reservation, I visited this remarkable estate and found that its guided tour revealed layer after layer of hospitality, wit, and carefully staged scenery.

After visiting Dazaifu Tenmangu, I stopped by Kanzeon-ji and found a completely different atmosphere: quiet, sparsely populated, and full of history. The highlight was the temple’s impressive treasure house, where the Buddhist statues inside left a strong impression on me.