TIKIKITI Editorial– Author –

After an evening walk along Hachiman-bori, I stopped by Two Rabbits Brewing BEER HOUSE, the brewery-run taproom founded by an Australian owner, and enjoyed a fresh beer in its stylish, international-feeling space.

I headed toward Chomeiji by bus and caught a beautiful magic-hour view of Lake Biwa before stopping at Chomeiji Onsen Tenha no Yu for a soak.

For two nights in Omihachiman, I stayed at Omihachiman Machiya Club, a distinctive lodging that repurposes traditional townhouses. My room was a renovated former soy sauce storehouse in the Bettei KOLMIO building, with a warm café breakfast each morning.

I drove up to Norikura Kogen hoping to see Zengoro Falls frozen over. Even though I had been told there was no snow, the trail turned out to be deeply covered, making the short walk to the falls far more challenging than I expected.

With time left before my train home, I stopped by Matsumoto City Museum of History, an open-air museum that preserves valuable modern-era buildings from Matsumoto and Shimosuwa, including a former courthouse, prison cells, and a silk mill.

For lunch, I stopped at Sobadokoro Gassho, a charming soba restaurant in a large traditional building, and tried toji soba for the first time—a local style of eating soba by swishing it in a hot pot like shabu-shabu.

I stopped by Pommier Cidre and Bonbon in the Shinmai Building for a quick standing drink and enjoyed a delicious cider with restrained sweetness.

On my last evening in Matsumoto, I returned to the area around Matsumoto Station, took one last look at Matsumoto Parco before its closure, and lined up for dinner at Okinado, where I had a fresh salad and the restaurant’s well-known pork steak.

I ended the first day of my trip at Matsumoto City Museum, which relocated to the city center in October 2023. From its airy lobby to the exhibits on Matsumoto’s history, the museum offered an easy-to-follow introduction to the city.

After arriving in Matsumoto just before lunch, I headed to Ganeisha, a place I had wanted to visit for a long time. I ordered their two-item plate with oyster coconut curry and lu rou fan, plus a small serving of chicken curry on the side.

After lunch, I finally visited the Former Kaichi School, which had been closed during my previous two trips because of seismic retrofitting. Reopened to visitors from November 2024, the 1876 building offered not only striking architecture but also a vivid look at the history of education in Matsumoto.

ラボラトリオ 「ラボラトリオ」で休憩 その後は「ラボラトリオ」さんへ。昭和８年に建てられた薬局の建物を利用した雑貨店兼カフェです。 土日限定のプリンをいただきました。

After lunch, I headed farther into Arita and stopped at Arita Sera, a shopping complex where Arita ware makers run their own direct-sales stores. With everything from traditional tableware to modern designs, it was one of the most enjoyable stops of the trip.

After leaving Arita Porcelain Park, I stopped at Gallery Arita, a popular restaurant where I could enjoy a meal surrounded by Arita ware. I ordered the local Gotofu set and even my tea after the meal was served in Arita porcelain.

After returning the car, I stopped in Hakata for a casual drink and a surprisingly affordable Chinese meal at Gyozaya Nino-Ni Watanabe-dori before heading to the airport.

The morning after staying at Mifuneyama Rakuen Hotel in Takeo Onsen, I visited Arita Porcelain Park, a lavish 1993 complex modeled on Dresden’s Zwinger Palace. Its grand architecture still impresses, even as parts of the former theme park now sit unused.

I visited Yoshinogari Historical Park in Saga to see the reconstructed Yayoi-period settlement and burial sites. Entering from the east gate made it easy to focus on the main archaeological area, but the park’s sheer scale quickly became clear.

After visiting Dazaifu Tenmangu, I stopped by Kanzeon-ji and found a completely different atmosphere: quiet, sparsely populated, and full of history. The highlight was the temple’s impressive treasure house, where the Buddhist statues inside left a strong impression on me.

After a slow drive from Hakata through heavy traffic, I arrived at Dazaifu Tenmangu to find packed streets, crowded grounds, and a rare chance to see its striking temporary shrine before the main hall’s renovation is complete.

On the way from Dazaifu to Saga, I stopped at Maki no Udon Onojo for lunch and finally tried its famous Niku Gobou Udon, a bowl of udon topped with simmered beef and burdock root tempura. The sweet broth, soft noodles, and unexpectedly thick burdock tempura made it a memorable meal.

For the third stop of the night, I wrapped up dinner at Ramen Unari Kiyokawa with a bowl of their popular seafood tonkotsu ramen.

On a night out enjoying Hakata’s food scene, I walked to my second stop, Hakata Mizutaki Senmon Tachibana, to try authentic mizutaki for the first time in its hometown.

On a one-night stay in Hakata before heading to Saga, I stopped at Machiya Akariya, a place known for both sake and thoughtful food. With warm sake, carefully prepared small plates, and several dishes that perfectly matched my taste, it was a memorable first stop of the night.

After a short rest, I headed to teamLab’s seasonal exhibition “A Forest Where Gods Live” at the neighboring Mifuneyama Rakuen. Spread across dark garden paths, old hotel structures, and illuminated natural scenery, it was an immersive nighttime experience that required both the app and sturdy shoes.

I began my Kyoto trip with an overnight stay at sequence KYOTO GOJO, a hotel one subway stop from Kyoto Station and just a short walk from Gojo Station. With self check-in, facial recognition access, simple modern rooms, and a large public bath, it made for a smooth and comfortable start.

Getting into Katsura Imperial Villa took persistence long before I arrived in Kyoto. After finally winning a reservation, I visited this remarkable estate and found that its guided tour revealed layer after layer of hospitality, wit, and carefully staged scenery.

After visiting Dazaifu Tenmangu, I stopped by Kanzeon-ji and found a completely different atmosphere: quiet, sparsely populated, and full of history. The highlight was the temple’s impressive treasure house, where the Buddhist statues inside left a strong impression on me.