TIKIKITI – Spatial Journeys in Japan

I took the train from Sannomiya to visit Akashi Castle, where I picked up a stamp for Japan’s 100 Famous Castles and explored its spacious grounds.

After taking the Hanshin Main Line to Iwaya Station, I walked toward the sea to the Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art. From the giant frog outside to the concrete staircases, decks, gallery spaces, and neighboring Nagisa Park, the visit felt like stepping fully into Tadao Ando’s architectural world.

After leaving the museum, I returned to central Kobe and spent some time walking around Sannomiya, from the newly rebuilt Kobe Sannomiya Hankyu Building to Ikuta Shrine and Kitano Kobo no Machi, before heading to my hotel.

After arriving in Kobe, I headed to Sannomiya and made my first stop SAVOY, a curry shop in the basement of Center Plaza. Its narrow counter-only space and spicy European-style curry made a memorable start to the trip.

Not feeling very hungry after a big breakfast, I stopped by Nijo Goya for a light meal and coffee. The quietly atmospheric space and the excellent hot sandwich and iced coffee made it a memorable break.

My last stop in Kyoto was KINOBI House, the direct retail store of KINOBI, one of the names that sparked Kyoto’s craft gin boom. In a renovated old building, I compared three varieties through a 1,500-yen tasting before deciding which bottle to take home.

After visiting Nijo Castle, I headed to Kennin-ji and found a temple filled with powerful imagery, dry landscape gardens, and quiet spaces to sit and slow down.

I finally visited Nijo Castle, right across from my hotel. It had been about 20 years since my last visit on a junior high school trip, and I spent the morning walking its vast grounds, touring Ninomaru Palace, and listening to one of the better audio guides I’ve used in Kyoto.

My final stop of the evening was Entokuin, where Nene, the wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, is said to have spent her later years. The illuminated dry landscape garden in the south and the dramatic North Garden, known for its many large stones, made for a memorable finale.

After a big meal, I headed out for a nighttime walk to Yasaka Shrine. With the gate brightly lit and fewer people around, it felt calm, safe, and perfect for an evening stroll.

I visited Kodaiji during its special Golden Week evening admission and found a temple grounds full of atmosphere, bright illuminations, and surprisingly good night photography spots.

In Kyoto, I tried Kyoto-style Chinese cuisine for the first time at Gion Morikoh, enjoying its elegant setting and a lineup of gentle, beautifully balanced dishes.

During my Kyoto trip, I stayed at HOTEL THE MITSUI KYOTO, a hotel built on land with deep ties to the Mitsui family. From a slightly misguided arrival to the courtyard, spa, breakfast, and tea experience, the stay left a strong impression.

After lunch near Kyoto National Museum, I made a side trip to the Asahi Beer Oyamazaki Villa Museum of Art, a hilltop museum where a historic wooden villa, Tadao Ando’s architecture, and fresh spring greenery come together beautifully.

After my museum visit ran into lunchtime, I found a lunch spot at the nearby guesthouse Kyoto Matsuya and enjoyed a simple, home-style meal with a memorable twist in the miso soup.

After checking out of Hyatt Regency Kyoto, I began sightseeing with an early visit to neighboring Sanjusangendo, returning for the first time in about 20 years since my middle school graduation trip.

Across from Sanjusangendo, I visited the Kyoto National Museum to see the architecture of Yoshio Taniguchi. With its reflecting pool, restrained lines, and light-filled interior, the Heisei Chishinkan offered a striking contrast to the older Meiji Kotokan beside it.

I had dinner at Onikai in Gion, a popular reservation-only spot known for seasonal Kyoto vegetables, and every dish was excellent—from shiitake stuffed with pike conger paste tempura to takikomi rice with cherry salmon.

On the second night of my Kyoto trip, I stayed at Hyatt Regency Kyoto, right across from the Kyoto National Museum and next to Sanjusangendo. From the distinctive lobby to the guest room and the generous Japanese breakfast the next morning, it was a memorable stop on the trip.

After walking over from Toji and Kanchi-in, I arrived at the Kyoto Railway Museum with only a little time before closing. Even in that short visit, the preserved trains, working roundhouse, and turning locomotive left a strong impression.

After sightseeing in Uji, I headed to To-ji for the first time. From the famous five-storied pagoda to the Kondo, the Kodo’s three-dimensional mandala, and neighboring Kanchi-in, it turned into a deeply memorable visit.

On my way back from Ujigami Shrine, I walked to Keihan Uji Station and found that the station itself became one last highlight of Uji, with its striking, unexpected design.

I stopped by Uji Shrine and then walked deeper into the grounds to visit Ujigami Shrine, a World Heritage site known as the oldest shrine building in Japan.

With time to spare before entering Byodoin, I stopped at Torikiku for an early lunch, then headed to Mitsuboshien Kanbayashi Sannyu Honten for tea sweets.

Kyoto visit includes Garden of Fine Art Kyoto by Tadao Ando, featuring ceramic paintings like Monet’s Water Lilies and Michelangelo’s “The Last Judgment”. Lunch at INDIA GATE offers Kyoto-style biryani. Luggage transfer via Satellite Concierge at Kyoto Station to The Westin Miyako Hotel Kyoto concludes the day.

Experience history and luxury at The Westin Miyako Kyoto, a gem since 1900 now part of the Kintetsu Group.

Experience the exquisite flavors of Kyoto's Kappo Yamashita, where every dish showcases the chef's expertise and seasonal ingredients. Indulge in a refined dining experience tailored to your pace and preferences.

I began my Kyoto trip with an overnight stay at sequence KYOTO GOJO, a hotel one subway stop from Kyoto Station and just a short walk from Gojo Station. With self check-in, facial recognition access, simple modern rooms, and a large public bath, it made for a smooth and comfortable start.

Getting into Katsura Imperial Villa took persistence long before I arrived in Kyoto. After finally winning a reservation, I visited this remarkable estate and found that its guided tour revealed layer after layer of hospitality, wit, and carefully staged scenery.